Yesterday, we took the North Island Marina owner's car to the historical village of Telegraph Cove

Telegraph Cove is a quaint boardwalk community on the northeast coast of Vancouver Island.  The settlement derived its name from the establishment of the telegraph station there in 1911. In the 1920s, a Japanese salmon saltery and a sawmill were established and the community flourished through the war years and into the 1980s when commercial operations ceased.  The properties were sold and the new owners began developing Telegraph Cove to showcase its history and attract tourists.  A marina and camp ground were added and, eventually, a pub, café and an excellent whale museum. 





The whale museum features a full skeleton of a 60 foot long
Fin Whale

 We saw our first bear yesterday as we were leaving Telegraph Cove!
It was a very large, very black bear that crossed the road in front of our car and headed into the thick brush.  That sighting capped off our day very nicely indeed.

It's time to tell what happened a week ago....

Long story short: Entering Lagoon Cove last Sunday afternoon at low tide, Main Attraction hit a rock with its left prop. Divers removed the damaged prop and replaced it with a spare which we were carrying.  A test run revealed some vibration and dripping which indicated the shaft was damaged. So, on Wednesday, we went to Sointula (see previous post), the location of the only marine yard with a haul out in the area. We were hauled out yesterday morning and, by 1 PM, the masters at Tarkenen Marine had the shaft straightened and the prop replaced.  We went  back in the water at high tide and were all tied up by 6 PM at Port McNeill, reunited with our cruising partners, Doug and Margi.  It was the happiest of happy hours.  Below is a picture of us just after 9 PM last night. We have reworked our float plan and believe we will be back on schedule June 6th at Prince Rupert, weather and water conditions dependent. 

Margi Reports on Alert Bag

Taking the 45-minute ferry to Alert Bay from Port McNeill and walking in the rain all day resulted in a memorable experience (slide 1).

Slide 1~~Ferry to Alert Bay

It started with meeting on the ferry a carver and artist named Sean Whonnock of the Kwakwaka'wakw Nation. He works in wood, stone and metals and is well accomplished but trained by some historically significant carvers. Doug and he had a wonderful conversation about a number of First Nation greats. You can see his work on sean@seanwhonnock.com.

While the town as a whole is modest there are parts that really stand out. At the U’Mista Cultural Centre, where they have strived to recapture the regional historical artifacts, there is a significant collection. Up the street is the tallest totem pole in the world. In the photos you can see the bottom portion where significant portions of the carvings still exist (slides 2-3).



Slides 2 & 3~~The world's tallest totem pole 

 

Next to the totem pole is the regional Big House (slide 4). The colorful ceremonial carvings along the main street are a highlight of our visit (slides 5-7.) 




Slide 4 (top)~~The Big House
Slides 5--7 (bottom)~~Colorful Carvings

Walking on the waterfront you can see a bit of history, for instance the First Nation Netloft (slide 8) and the Anglican Church (slide 9), and finally an historic totem pole with a raven who has decided to be an added stylistic feature (slide 10).

 Slide 8~~Netloft
Slide 9~~Church
Slide 10~~Totem Pole with Raven



Wednesay May 25th--Lagoon Cove to Port McNeill & Sointula

Bowhaus with Main Attraction Close Behind
Transiting the Clio Channel at 6 AM Thursday

Had an early but easy time getting to Port McNeill and Sointula. Sointula is on Malcolm Island just 3 miles from Port McNeill.  That's where Main Attraction is awaiting some marine work tomorrow morning,  Bowhaus is tucked away at Port McNeill and we plan to join them there on Saturday Alert Bay (by ferry) tomorrow.  This is new territory for all of us and a major jumping off point for crossing the Queen Charlotte Strait when heading north.  We plan to do that on Tuesday, weather and repairs permitting. 

Tarkanen Marine is the only marine repair shop in the area

The Sointula Co-Op has a good selection of food and other supplies

The bakery is excellent.  Guess what T is sipping from that coffee cup?
Hint:  Not coffee and he bought it at the co-op which also has
a liquor agency. 

Lagoon Cove--full of whimsy and smiles all around

Spending 3 days in Lagoon Cove brought back such fond memories as we were making new ones.    It was 6 years ago that we first came into Lagoon Cove (located on East Cracroft Island, BC) which is often referred to as the gateway to the Broughton's. The legendary Bill Barber was in great form as he told tall tales at happy hour each evening--that was after he personally brought in pots full of fresh prawns which he had caught and cooked to share with all of the marina guests.  Sadly, Bill died just a few years ago.  All who knew him miss him so much but his wife, Jean (whom we had not met until this year) is carrying on with stories of her own and some of his as well.


Pictured below in 2010 

Bill tells stories at Happy Hour

At 80, the marina is really too much for Jean and it's been for sale since Bill died.  But she seems undaunted as she sees that marina guests are treated as Bill would have treated them--with a warm welcome, a big smile and genuine joy. 

Top left:  The patio and main building.  
Top right:  Sign on the dock needs no explanation
Lower left.  Jean's side garden with patio seen in the background. Jean's back garden with her home seen in the background
Lower right:  Happy hour this week.  Jean standing in the same spot as Bill. 

    
We were touched that several guests who've been coming to Lagoon Cove for years were pitching in to mow the yard, pull weeds in the garden and fix what needed fixing.  Jean says she has accepted an offer from a logging company to sell Lagoon Cove but there is much speculation on whether the deal will go through and, if it does, whether the buyer will close the marina or continue operations.  For the time being,  a delightful young couple (Dave and Jam) are assisting Jean on the docks.  They've been a godsend for her and we were happy to leave Wednesday morning knowing she had them nearby.

Below:  Butterflies were everywhere in Jean's gardens

On Tuesday night (our last night at LC) after happy hour, we had Jean, Jam and Dave join us for dinner.   It was such fun!

O

Above left:  Jean on the patio. 
Below left:  Doug, Margi, Ginnie, Torben
and Chester in front of the main building at Happy Hour. 
Above right, dinner on the dock adjacent to our boats. 
Below right:  Jam & Dave with Chester. 

 Below:  Some of the Lagoon Cove funkiness...
Bill's sense of humor is captured well by his totem pole
and the warning sign for the burn barrel.

We feel very blessed to have experienced Bill's warm exuberance  in 2010 and Jean's extraordinary courage and hospitality this year. Amazing people in an amazing place. 

We're changing course and will go to Port McNeill on Wednesday if the winds and currents are in our favor.

All is well.  We do need to pick up some parts and Port McNeill has what we need.

And this shot was taken today (Sunday) on the way to Lagoon Cove, before entering the Johnstone Strait

Looks a lot like yesterday, doesn't it? 

Saturday afternoon at Blind Channel--Great weather and hiking trails

Look what Doug Found 

That's one big cedar!  

The Gym Rats, Margi & Ginnie

Happy Hour at the "Aft Deck Bistro" 

joined by Brian and Allie Peterman (Skylark II) 

and their friend, Rob. 

Another Great Day of Cruising. Today, from Dent Island to Blind Channel.

One more pic of tonight's moon taken from the end of the Dent Island Marina dock

A busy day...We crossed through our first major rapids (Yaculta), arrived at Dent Island and enjoyed the afternoon. And then the moon appeared.

Boats lined up waiting for 

slack water at Yaculta Rapids 

Tied up at Dent and having a picnic on the deck.  The lodge won't be fully open until June 1st so we did our own thing--complete with Mojitos

And then there was this moon tonight 

Capt. George Vancouver named it Desolation Sound because he thought it had nothing to offer that was pleasing to the eye. What do you think?

Bowhaus in front of Main Attraction 

transiting the Lewis Channel this morning

From Margi: What a difference a day makes! When we entered Cortes Bay yesterday we passed the entrance to Prideaux Haven. The clouds at 3:00 pm (above) and then sunshine 17 hours later(this morning).

10 Pounds of Spot Prawns Cooked on the Dock

One More Picture of Yesterday's Smooth Crossing....And the Beautiful Flowers at Madeira Park

Seen on our walk to the grocery store

Chester is Really a Great Boat Dog!

He joined me (Ginnie) on the foredeck as we came into Pender Harbour (above) and then rested comfortably on the walk-around (below) so he could watch us get settled at John Henry Marina.  

Our First Major Crossing

 

From Schooner Cove to Pender Harbour

There was virtually no wind crossing the Strait of Georgia this morning, just a gentle breeze, mild temperatures and exceptionally flat waters. Passing a log boom offered the only distraction from viewing the vast sea of water and mountains outlined in the horizon.

The adventure began at 8:45 this morning as we departed Roche Harbor headed to Ganges on Saltspring Island, BC

Doug, Margi, Ginnie (with Chester) and Torben

Pictured last night on board Main Attraction in Roche Harbor

This says it all.....

We'll be traveling throughCanadian 

waters for the next two and a half weeks

UNDERWAY!

Main Attraction is off the dock and underway with fair skies and a following sea.  We know we'll encounter all sorts of weather conditions over the next few weeks but we couldn't have asked for a better day to start this adventure! 

Leaving Elliott Bay Marina

AIS shows "MA II" is underway 

Today's route--to Port Townsend

We Won't Starve!

It's the last weekend for provisioning and that means all those frozen meals we've prepared in advance are ready to go into our freezers on board.  Here's what we'll have to choose from for all those nights at anchor:

• Italian sausage, peppers/onions with orzo salad
• Ricotta stuffed shells
• Pasta w/ tuna, olives capers
• Beef stew 
• Minestrone
• Lamb burgers
• Pasta pesto
• Japanese night: Salmon eggs (ikura) with rice: miso marinated green beans  
• Porcini and sausage pasta
• Ground beef tortillas
• Mediterranean vegetarian couscous
• Short ribs Provençale
• Coconut curry chicken
• While chicken chili
• BBQ ribs
• Ahi tuna tacos
• Coq au van
• Chicken Provençale
• Racks of lamb
• Tenderloin steaks
• Pork tenderloin
• And lots of veggies too